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  • How To's

    • How do I Safely Handle or Replace a Capacitor

      Motor start and/or filter capacitors can retain a charge for up to 60 seconds or longer after power has been removed from the equipment. Some capacitors may have a resistor across the capacitor that speeds up the discharge.

      • Remove power from the unit and wait 2 minutes before handling the capacitor.
      • Use caution when handling electronic components. 
      • Capacitors can be discharged by placing the leads of a socketed 100 watt light bulb across the capacitor, or with a low resistance high wattage resistor.
      • Discharge can be verified with a DC VOM.
      • Shorting out the capacitor with a screwdriver is not recommended.
    • How to Remove and Replace the Bottom Bracket on an Indoor Cycling Bike

      Following is a basic guideline of removing and replacing the bottom bracket on an indoor cycling bike. Due to the different brands of indoor cycling bikes and designs for bottom brackets, the following should only be used as a guideline. If any of the information is not exact to the bike being serviced, refer to the service manual or call Sportsmith for further help.

       

      Common Tools Needed:
      Phillips Screw Driver
      Set of Allen Wrenches (standard and metric)
      Bottom Bracket Tool
      Cotterless Crank Puller Tool
      9/16” Socket
      Ratchet Wrench
      Pedal Wrench
      Crescent Wrench

      You will begin by removing the outside belt/chain guard by using either or both the Phillips screw driver and Allen wrenches. It may be necessary to remove the drive side pedal (using the pedal wrench) in order to completely remove the outside belt/chain guard.

      Once the belt/chain guard is removed, you will need to remove the belt/chain. If the unit is belt driven, you can simply “walk” the belt off the pulley by pushing the belt to the outside while turning the crank backwards. **CAUTION: PINCH POINT ** If the unit is chain driven, most use a continuous chain that can be “walked” off the sprocket just like the belt. **CAUTION: PINCH POINT ** Some chains may use a connecting link and can be separated at the connecting link to remove the chain. The connecting link is different in appearance from all other chain links.

      Now it is time to remove the crank arms. How to Use a Cotterless Crank Puller Tool

      It works best to place the bike upside down for best leverage to remove the bottom bracket. (If placing the bike upside down, ensure proper seat adjustment for best bike balance.) Begin removing the bottom bracket from the drive side of the bike. This side has a reverse thread. You will need to turn right to loosen and remove the bottom bracket. Place the teeth of the bottom bracket tool into the teeth of the bottom bracket cup. Using the ratchet wrench or crescent wrench to turn the bottom bracket tool, you will turn right to loosen and remove the bottom bracket. (If removal of the bottom bracket is difficult, it helps to use a crescent wrench in combination with a bolt threaded into the bottom bracket shaft to hold the tool in place while applying pressure to break the bottom bracket loose.) Remove the bottom bracket from the frame. Remove the bottom bracket cup and/or lock ring from the non-drive side of the bike. This is a standard thread. You will turn left to loosen and remove this bottom bracket cup and/or lock ring.

      Install the new bottom bracket from the drive side and tighten flush to the frame. Install the bottom bracket cup and/or lock ring to the non-drive side and tighten.

      Re-install the crank arms and pedals. Make sure the crank arm bolts are tightened to the proper torque. If unsure of proper torque specs, refer to the equipment service manual or call Sportsmith.

      Re-install the belt/chain onto the pulley/sprocket. If belt/chain was “walked” off the pulley for removal, it can be “walked” onto the pulley/sprocket by placing the belt or chain along the bottom of the pulley/sprocket. Carefully, turn the crank arm forward while lifting on the belt/chain. **CAUTION: PINCH POINT ** Continuing turning the crank forward until the belt/chain is in place.

      Re-install the outside chain guard and test the unit. Ride the bike without tension and test with tension. Ensure functionality and feel of the ride. Make any adjustments if necessary.

    • How to Replace a Treadmill Running Belt and Deck

      Replacing a Treadmill Walking Belt and Deck

      Over time a treadmill belt stretches and either rips or becomes so long it can no longer be adjusted tight enough to prevent the belt from slipping.  Same goes with the treadmill deck; Over time the treadmill deck becomes worn and no longer offers a smooth slick surface for the belt.  When either of these instances occur, it is time to replace both the belt and the deck.

      Following is a basic guideline of removing and replacing the running belt and deck on a treadmill. Due to different brands and designs of treadmills, the following should only be used as a guideline. If any of the information is not exact to the treadmill being serviced, refer to the service manual or call Sportsmith for further help.

      Tools needed:

      (Tools needed may vary depending on treadmill)
      • Phillips Screwdriver
      • Set of Allen Wrenches
      • Set of Box End or Open Face Wrenches
      1. Turn the power switch on the treadmill to the OFF position.
      2. Unplug the power cord from the wall outlet.
      3. Remove the finger guard and/or the end cap retaining screws near the rear roller.
      4. Loosen each rear roller bolt by 10 full turns.  Count the remaining turns necessary to remove the rear roller bolts.  Write down the number of turns needed to remove the bolts in each side of the rear roller for future reference.
      5. Carefully remove the rear roller from the unit.  Clean off any wax or debris buildup from the roller and set it aside.
      6. Remove the front shroud or motor cover and set it aside.
      7. Locate the drive belt on the drive motor.  Work the drive belt off of the motor pulley by hand turning the flywheel while pushing the belt to the side.
      8. Remove the front roller retaining bolts.  (In some cases you may have two bolts.  In this case, refer to the same procedure as the rear roller, count the turns for proper alignment later.)  In some instances, in order to remove the front roller bolts, you will need to unbolt the treadmill frame so that it is able to separate from the console upright arms.  By doing this, you are clearing space to allow the front roller bolts to be removed from the ends of the front roller.
      9. Carefully remove the front roller from the unit.  Clean off any wax or debris buildup from the roller and place it aside.
      10. Loosen and remove the deck mounting hardware.  This may also mean, prying the staples out of the side rail covers and then removing them in order to expose the deck hardware.  Your new belt may have come with hardware meant for use when reattaching the side rail covers.
      11. Remove the deck and the belt by raising the right side edge of the deck over the frame rail and sliding it to the right.
      12. When installing a new belt or deck it is important to note that a new belt and deck should always be installed together. Failure to adhere to this guideline will severely shorten the life of the newly installed parts. Some decks can be used on both sides. However, be sure that each side is used only once. Be sure to install the belt in the proper direction on the unit.
      13. Install the belt and deck by first putting the belt on the deck, and then installing them from the right side as a unit.  Be sure the mounting holes are aligned.
      14. Install the deck mounting hardware and the side rail covers.  If applicable us the new mounting hardware to attach the side rail covers.
      15. Carefully place the front roller on the deck under the belt and push it forward into place, while placing the drive belt on the inside of the drive pulley.
      16. Replace the front roller bolts. If your treadmill has the adjustable front roller, refer back to the number of turns you wrote down previously.  This should help you get close to the proper alignment.  It also may be helpful to install the bolts just a couple of turns and then come back to them after the rear roller is installed.
      17. Once the roller is installed, you can spin the roller by hand while pushing the drive belt onto the pulley.  Be sure to spin the roller several times to insure complete installation and alignment of the drive belt on the pulley.
      18. Install the rear roller into unit. Carefully start each bolt by hand, and turn one to two threads without tools to ensure cross-threading does not occur.
      19. Tighten each rear roller bolt the number of turns previously written down, as a reference point.
      20. Install the front shroud or motor cover.
      21. Plug in and turn the power switch to ON.
      22. Start the unit at a very slow speed and check for proper belt alignment. Remember to start at the slowest speed possible and be ready to stop the unit quickly if needed.  If the belt is not moving, make equal turns to each side of the rear roller until it does.
      23. If the belt is moving to right side of the unit, tighten the right roller bolt. If the belt is moving to the left side of the unit, tighten the left roller bolt until the belt is tracking properly.  Caution: Make very small adjustments such as 1/4 turns and then watch the belt for several moments before making another adjustment.
      24. Once the belt is tracking properly, walk on the unit at a slow speed and check for belt slippage. If this is happening, tighten each of the rear roller bolts equal turns until the slippage is no longer occurring. Caution: Make very small adjustments such as 1/4 turns and then watch the belt for several moments before making another adjustment.
      25. Increase the unit to a jogging speed to check for belt travel or slippage.  If slippage still occurs, make small adjustments (1/4 turns) to both sides of the rear roller and re-test.
      26. Install the finger guards and/or end caps once you have enough clearance from the rear roller.
      27. Some manufacturers require wax or lube during the install process and the lubricant may be included with your belt.  Apply one packet of lube at time of install and the second is to be used during your next routine maintenance.
      If you have any concerns or need further assistance with replacing your treadmill belt and deck, please contact our experienced tech team at 888.713.2880.
    • How to Tension a Treadmill Running Belt
      It is necessary to properly tension a treadmill belt when it is replaced. After time, a belt can stretch and may begin to slip. When this happens, it is necessary to adjust the tension of the running belt to stop it from slipping.

      Manufacturers of treadmills generally agree on one of three procedures for how to tension a treadmill running belt.

      1. Adjust for no slippage of the treadmill walking belt on the front roller (Often referred to as the "Stomp Test")
        1. This procedure works well for a previously installed belt that is now slipping.
        2. Underside of belt should be free of any glazing/wax buildup.
        3. Rollers must also be free of wax buildup.
        4. Be sure belt tracking/centering is correct before proceeding.
        5. The most popular speed for this adjustment is 2mph to 3mph.
        6. Try to slow the belt by applying pressure with your foot against the belt movement while grasping the handrails. If the running belt slow, slips or stops (and the front roller does not) adjust BOTH adjustment bolts 1/4 turn clockwise. Test again and repeat adjustment if necessary.
      2. This procedure requires two belt gauges or calipers
        1. This procedure works well when installing a new belt.
        2. This procedure requires you to stretch the belt. Depending on the manufacturer*, this varies between .4 and .6 percent. A dial on the gauge or caliper will indicate the amount of stretch. *Consult the owner/service manual for proper tension.
        3. If you are working on a previously tensioned belt you will need to release the tension before attaching the gauges or calipers.
      3. Gauges or Calipers unavailable
        1. Release the tension on the belt.
        2. Using a yard stick or tape measure, place two marks on the left and right edges of the belt and deck 36 inches apart (or 50 inches if you prefer).
        3. Adjust the left and right tensioning bolts until both sides measure 36 3/16 inches (or 50 1/4). This is equal to .5% of stretch.
        4. Test for proper tracking and tension, adjust if necessary.
    • How to Use A Commutator Stone

      A commutator stone is used to remove carbon build up from the commutator of a motor or alternator, which is created from worn brushes. The commutator is the internal part of the motor or alternator that spins and makes contact with the motor or alternator brush.

       

      BE ADVISED: The dust created from cleaning the commutator is a carbon dust. Use caution when removing dust so as not to inhale.

      If servicing the motor or alternator without removing from the unit, be sure to disconnect power from the machine.

      To remove the carbon build up from the commutator, first remove the brush from the motor or alternator. Insert the commutator stone into the brushes place in the motor or alternator. Apply slight pressure against the commutator stone and by hand, slowly turn the motor or alternator shaft. As you are turning the shaft of the motor or alternator, the commutator stone cleans away the carbon that has built up on the commutator.

      Use a vacuum hose to suck out the dust debris or tip the motor/alternator over and allow the carbon dust to fall out.

    • How to Use a Cotterless Crank Puller Tool

      How to Use a Crank Puller Tool

      • Crank pullers are commonly used to remove the crank arm from many types of exercise bikes.  The tool can be used on most brands of indoor cycles and stationary upright or recumbent bikes.  This tool cannot be used on bikes equipped with a 1-piece crank arm.
      • Using the crank puller is simple and easy; Start by removing the crank arm bolt. 
      • First you will need to remove the plastic crank bolt cover from the crank arm to access the bolt.  This can be done using a flat head screwdriver or a penny from your pocket. 
      • Remove the crank arm bolt.  This can require a hex wrench or a socket wrench. 
      • Next, thread the crank puller tool into the crank arm in place of the crank bolt cover. Thread the tool into the crank arm several threads. It may be necessary to use a wrench to tighten further.
      • Now that you have this part of the tool threaded into the crank arm, turn the handle on the tool. As you continue to turn the handle of the tool, this pulls the crank arm off the bottom bracket shaft.
  • Manufacturer Error Codes

    • Cybex
    • LifeFitness
    • Quinton
    • Star Trac (Unisen)
    • Trotter
    • True

      True Treadmill Errors and Service Messages

      • The True 600, 700, 725 and 750 series treadmills are equipped with built-in diagnostics and maintenance reminders that display either an error message or service message as they occur.
      •  The error messages that may be displayed by the built-in diagnostics are as follows:
        • E1:INCLINE
          • This means that the incline is moving when it has not been commanded to.
        • E1:MINIMUM
          • This is a minimum incline calibrating error that can be cleared by calibrating the incline.
        • E1:RANGE
          • This means the difference between the treadmills zero position and maximum incline is not sufficient.
        •  E1:STALL
          • This means that the incline is not moving when it has been commanded to.
        • E2:OVERSPEED
          • This occurs when acceleration greater than 2.1 mph occurs as this is greater acceleration than anticipated.
        • E2:CAL
          • This means feedback cannot reduce or increase speed to target and error can be cleared by calibrating treadmill.
        • E3:EEPROM
          • This error happens when a data error is detected on the EEprom.  The control panel needs replaced if this error occurs.
        • E5:SENSOR
          • This error occurs when there is no speed or RPM feedback detected from speed sensor.
      • The service messages that may be displayed by the built-in maintenance reminders are as follows:
        • S1:LUBE
          • This service message displays when it is time for inspection of the deck lubrication system.
        • S2:CLEAN
          • This service message displays every 500 miles and is your prompt to clean the treadmill.
        • S3:MOTOR
          • This service message displays every 2500 hours and is your prompt to check the motor brushes.
      • This information should help you understand the cause of the error message or code and how to take action to repair your True treadmill
  • Technical Support and Troubleshooting

  • Videos

    • Anti-Burst Stability Ball Demonstration
    • Battery Testing Procedure

      This video demonstrates how to check a battery for proper voltage before replacing it. In the video examples the battery has been removed from the unit, although a battery can be tested while on or off the unit.

      Tools Needed: Volt Meter

      Testing a Battery

      • You will need a meter that can test DC voltage. There are many possible battery ratings such as 6 VDC, 8 VDC, and 12 VDC. Ensure that your meter is equipped with a compatible DC volt range for the battery being tested.
        (It is important to note that for the video we used several batteries with different ratings, but all batteries were rated less than 20 volts, so the meter setting of 20 VDC used worked for all our examples.)
      • To begin set your meter to volts DC and auto range or manually set it to a DC volt range proper for the battery being tested, depending on your meters options.
      • Place the red lead of the meter on the positive terminal of the battery and the black lead of the meter on the negative terminal of the battery.
      • You should get a reading very close to the rating of the battery being tested. If you get a reading significantly below the rating of the battery, the battery should be charged and re-tested.
      • If after re-charging, the battery still shows a reading well below the rating, the battery should be replaced.

      Once you verify you have a good battery installed it is highly recommended that the charging system of the unit be tested to prevent future battery problems. In most cases taking a reading with the battery installed, while the unit is in operation will prove the functionality of the charging system. This is not possible on all units for safety reasons.

      Caution: Make sure that all parts of the machine are clear of obstruction and that you and your meter are clear of all moving parts while performing the voltage test to confirm functionality of the charging system. It may be necessary to remove some shrouds completely to ensure safety of the unit and persons involved.

      Refer to the manufacturer and or service manual for more information.

       

    • Bike Repair, Maintenance and Assembly Videos
    • How to Assemble a Sportsmith Wood Plyo Box

      Instructional Video about How to Assemble a Wood Plyo Box by Sportsmith

        • In this video we show you how to to assemble a Sportsmith wood plyo box
        • The first step is to unpack the plyo box and make sure you have:
          • (4) Side Panels that include two marked "A" and two marked "B"
          • (1) Bag of Hardware that includes 16 Screws
          • (1) Top Panel
        • Note: Though wood glue is not included, it is highly recommended
        • Take caution when assembling parts
          • You want the rough square edge of the panels to face the inside of the plyo box and the rounded smooth edge to face the outside, as demonstrated in the video
        • Using one panel "A" and one panel "B" lean them against each other as shown
          • Be sure that the top edge of the two boards are lined up and that both boards are lined up straight
        • Using one of the included screws, install a screw into one of the pre-drilled pilot holes
          • Do not tighten the screw completely; just install the screw about half way
            • This will leave some play in the assembly for alignment of all the pieces
        • Once you have assembled one panel "A" to one panel "B", set it aside and assemble the other half of the plyo box
        • Now that you have both "halves" assembled place them together as seen in the video and start the six screws that will attach the two halves together

      Be sure you have not tightened any of the hardware completely before the next step

      • NOTE: Though wood glue is not included, it is highly recommended for assembly of this Plyo Box
        • It will greatly increase the life of the box
      • Set the top piece in place. Then align one edge and install a screw through the top panel using one of the pre-drilled holes
      • Now move to the opposite edge and make sure the top panel is aligned before installing the screw
      • Make any final adjustments to the alignment and install the last two screws into the top panel
      • Make sure all alignment is correct and then tighten all hardware
        • Don't forget to tighten the screws in the top panel
      • This completes our instructional walk through of assembling the wood plyo box by Sportsmith
    • How to Install a Ramp Sleeve onto a Precor Elliptical

      Installing a Ramp Sleeve onto a Precor Elliptical

      • In this video we demonstrate how to install a ramp sleeve onto a Precor elliptical
      • Tools required:
        • Bungee or Piece of String
        • Wet Soapy Cloth* or Paper Towel*
        • Clean Dry Cloth
      • Use a wet soapy cloth* or paper towel* to clean the surface of the ramp, making sure it is free of all dirt and debris
      • Ramp surface needs to be completely dry before applying the ramp sleeve
      • This is a very cost effective way to get more life out of your ramp assembly
      • Once the ramp assembly is clean and dry, remove the paper from the two sided tape on the ramp sleeve and place the sleeve onto the ramp assembly by holding the sleeve at an up angle and aligning the bottom edge before pressing the ramp sleeve into the ramp assembly as shown in the video
      • Press firmly all over the sleeve to ensure it is completely fitted to the ramp assembly
      • Now you can remove the protective cover from the top of the ramp sleeve and let the pedal arm back down into position for use
      • Repeat steps to install other ramp sleeve
      *(non-citrus based cleaning agent - Precor approved cleaner is 30:1 solution of water and Simple Green®)
    • How to Install the Stud Bar

      Tools Needed:

      • 3/8" adapter (used with drill to drive sockets for lag bolts to avoid over-torque and damage to bolt)
      • 3/16" drill bit that is minimum 3" length
      • Tape Measurer
      • Cordless drill
      • 9/16" Socket
      • 1/2" Socket
      • Stud finder
      • Ratchet
      • Pencil

      For Metal Stud Ceiling/Wall:

      • Toggle bolts (1/4" x 4")
      • 3/4" drill bit

      Using the stud finder; locate the ceiling or wall studs where you wish to mount the stud bar and note the direction of the studs. Next, use the stud finder to identify the edges of the stud and mark the center of the stud with the pencil. (NOTE: The center of the stud will provide the best strength in mounting of the stud bar.) From the marked drill point, measure 32" down the stud and mark another drill point. Now, measure 48" over from the first marked drill point and using the stud finder, locate and mark the center of the stud. Again, from this marked drill point, measure 32" down the stud and mark another drill point.

      The result should represent the four corners of the mounted stud bar on your ceiling or wall. You may also want to measure from the edge of the ceiling or wall to the two near corner points to ensure the stud bar will be even when mounted.

      Choose a corner and drill your first pilot hole. Secure one "T" of the stud bar to the ceiling or wall using this pilot hole. Ensure the stud bar is centered on the stud at the opposite end and using the pre-drilled hole in the stud bar as a guide, start your next mounting hole. Continue until all 4 mounting bolts are installed into this "T" of the stud bar.

      You can now install the bar to the mounted "T". This will support the second "T" while mounting to your ceiling or wall studs. Install the second "T" onto the bar. You may now want to verify the measurement from the edge of the ceiling or wall and the mounted "T" to the measurement from the edge of the ceiling or wall and the "T" you are about to mount, to ensure the stud bar will be even when mounted.

      The stud bar should have enough movement or play to line up with the center marks on the stud you measured at 48". Install a bolt on each end of this "T" at the verified center points on the stud and then using the pre-drilled holes in the stud, drill your last holes and install your remaining bolts.

      As a last step, check all the bolts to ensure they are fully tightened.

    • How to Verify Power from a 110V Outlet

      Video about How to Verify Power from a 110V Outlet

      • The first step of troubleshooting a power issue with a machine equipped with a power cord is to verify that the outlet being used is working
        • This video demonstrates a simple method of testing the outlet
      • Make sure that the outlet and appliance have matching plug and receptacle before plugging in
        • Failure to do so could result in injury and/or damage to electrical circuit and/or appliance
      • This procedure is a quick and easy way to test the functionality of a 110 volt outlet
      • Plug in a small appliance such as the fan used in the video and make sure the appliance works
        • If so, you know that the outlet is not your problem
      • You could also use a light, small lamp, or radio for this test
        • Any small appliance that you can plug in and turn on and know the appliance is working
      • This completes our demonstration of testing a 110V outlet for power
    • Jungle Gym XT vs. TRX - A Guided Comparison of the Suspension Trainers

      Suspension Trainer Guided Video Comparison for the Jungle Gym XT vs. TRX

      • This video provides a guided comparison of the Jungle Gym XT Suspension Trainer and the TRX Suspension Trainer which are two unique systems designed to develop muscle strength and flexibility
        • Suspension training has been shown to be an effective tool to build muscle mass, core strength and joint stability
      • Both of these products allow for exercises that engage the body's resistance by utilizing straps that attach to a pole or other anchor point
        • The straps on both of these trainers are 8 ft long, are adjustable and come equipped with handles
        • They also come with instructional DVDs and a small booklet of various workouts
        • They both have available attachments that allow them to be secured to different anchor points
      • The TRX was the first suspension training system developed and continues to lead the market even as lower priced substitutes enter the market
        • The TRX attaches to almost any anchor point with straps built to hold up to 1,000 pounds
        • The Xmount anchor for the TRX is available for $34.95 and the door anchor is available for $24.95
          • Together they ensure you can attach to any anchor point
        • Strap extenders are available for the TRX at $14.95 each
      • The Jungle Gym XT provides ergonomic handles as well as foot cradles
        • The handles are made from an easy-to-clean material
        • The straps on the Jungle Gym XT hold up to 1,500 pounds and have inline carbon fiber buckles for easy adjustment
        • It also comes with two non-scuff door anchors
        • Additional strap extenders can be purchased for this unit for $29.99, which add another eight feet to the straps
      • The Jungle Gym XT is designed to change between a V-shaped, a neutral (Olympic preferred) suspension, or a wide-angle suspension
      • The price of the TRX trainer is $189.95, while the Jungle Gym XT is priced at $99.99
    • LifeFitness Equipment Repair Videos
    • Mounting the Equipment Wipe Dispenser to the Floor Stand

      Video of How to Mount an Equipment Wipe Dispenser to its Stand

      • This video demonstrates how to mount an equipment wipe dispenser to its stand
      • Tools required:
        • Phillips Screwdriver
        • Pliers
      • When purchasing the Sportsmith equipment wipe dispenser you will receive a bag of hardware that includes the key, four screws and four wall anchors
        • These are to be used when mounting the dispenser to a drywall or sheetrock type surface only
      • When purchasing the equipment wipe stand you will receive with the stand a bag of hardware that includes four bolts and four acorn nuts
        • These are to be used when mounting the dispenser to the stand
      • Note: Always mount the dispenser in an upright manner (wipes come out the top) to prevent the liquid from draining out of the wipes and causing the wipes to dry out
      • To begin use the key to open the stand
      • Now place a bolt through the stand from the back and through the mounting hole of the dispenser and finger tighten the acorn nut to the bolt
      • Once you have completed this step the dispenser will be held to the stand so that you can install the other 3 nuts and bolts
      • Now tighten the hardware using a Phillips screwdriver and a pair of pliers
      • This concludes our video example of how to mount your wipe dispenser to its stand
    • Schwinn Equipment Maintenance and Repair Videos
    • Stairmaster Equipment Troubleshooting, Repair & Service Videos
    • StarTrac Equipment Service and Repair Videos
    • Testing a Potentiometer

      Tools Needed: Ohm Meter

      Most potentiometers have three connectors. Two are the total and non varying resistance of the potentiometer, referred to as ends. The third is the variable resistance, referred to as the wiper.

      If it is unknown which connections are which you can perform the following tests and determine their location.

      Ensure that the meter being used for testing is equipped with a range capable of testing the potentiometer in question. Remember to always set your meter to one range higher than the component being tested. The potentiometer used in our video is rated at 1000 ohms or 1k Ohm, so we will be using the 2k setting on our meter.

      If any of these tests results in an open or no reading the potentiometer is bad.

      When taking a reading from either of the two ends and the wiper you should get a reading equal to the adjustment of the potentiometer. This can be verified by having someone adjust the potentiometer while taking a reading.

      When taking a reading from the two end poles you should get a reading equal to the potentiometer's rating, as is the case in our example, 1000 ohms or 1k ohm. This reading should only vary slightly if any when the potentiometer is adjusted.